Conditions You Can't Change

While the growth cycle of the hair can be enhanced by proper care, the actual number of hairs on the head can never be increased. It is predetermined by many factors, a major one of which is hair color. Blondes usually have more hair than anybody else--an average of about 120,000. Those with brown hair have approximately 110,000; black, 105,000. Redheads come in last with an average of about 80,000.

In addition to the variance among the number of hairs, differences also prevail concerning the thickness, wave patterns, and manageability. This is why you cannot force your hair into a style not intended by its racial origin.

There are basically three distinct categories of inherited hair shapes: Oriental, Caucasian, and Negroid. Oriental hair is primarily a round strand, formed in a cross section with a very rigid and straight line. It will resist complicated curling or waving attempts and almost refuse to lie flat against the head. Caucasian hair has a kidney-shaped cross section and a wavier texture than Oriental, thus allowing for a flexibility in styling. It is the easiest to manipulate and tends to bend or fall in a variety of directions without much resistance. The degree of curl depends on the curse of the follicles through which it grows. This explains why Negroid hair has an extremely curly or kinky texture--the follicles are highly curved. Like Oriental, it is difficult to manage when forced into a pattern different from its natural style. Naturally, interracial mixing has caused many variations of these basic shapes.

Don't expect more of your hair than it can offer. The attention you give it should be directed at creating the healthiest possible environment for hair growth, not at trying to change its inherent qualities.

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A Good Foundation

The part of the hairpiece onto which the hair is sewn is called the base or foundation. It rests directly on your scalp; so it should be as lightweight and airy as your budget will allow. The varieties are many, but they all fall into two general categories: cloth and plastic.

The cloth base, recommended for custom-made pieces, can be made of either guaze or lace.

The guaze cloth is made of two layers of the finest of Swiss silks, tightly woven together in order to hold the individual hairs sewn in. Because of the lightness of the fabric, its presence is not felt by you as you wear it or by anyone touching the hairpiece while it is on your head. Your scalp can breathe with ease, since a hairpiece made with this type of base would only weigh one or two ounces, including the sewn-in hair. Yet, it has great strength and durability, and it is easy to repair should any damage be done to it.

The lace cloth base, consisting of two layers of lace (sometimes made of nylon), is even lighter in weight than the gauze base. Although it is more delicate than gauze, with the proper care, it can prove to be just as durable. Just recently, a special lace base was formulated that is pressed and steamed to retain a cup shape. Although it molds itself to the head, it is still exceptionally light and provides excellent ventilation. David Hansen reserves it for only his best European hair imports.

Plastic bases, sometimes referred to as skin bases, do not have the impressive qualities of the cloth bases. Their greatest advantage is appreciated by the outdoors man. When used together with synthetic hair, they afford a man the luxury of being able to sun and swim without worrying about his hairpiece deteriorating. Yet, you can't expect it to look as natural as human hair sewn into a cloth base. Plastics are much hotter than cloth. They lose hair easily, and they lie much flatter on the scalp. To repair a plastic base requires so much time and effort, it is often cheaper to buy a new one. Cleaning must be done with caution, as certain cleaning fluids are strong enough to actually dissolve this base.

Should you avoid a plastic base entirely? No need to. As stated, it has its advantages when used as a second piece for the outdoor work and play. In the hands of a good stylist, it can even be made to look comparable to a custom-made, at least for a short while. If you insist on wearing it as your one and only hairpiece, day in and day out, however, you'll end up spending more replacing it then you would have if you had sprung for a gauze or lace base right from the beginning.

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